This is the Laher Engagement Ring Journal.

Today, we’re talking about the amazing opporunity that lies within the gemstone class, spinel.

The Overlooked and Under-appreciated Spinels

‘Hardness vs Toughness’... Sounds like a B-grade wrestling promotion, doesn’t it? 

Well, in this context, there is an important difference here, which again guides us to an under-appreciated - therefore an undervalued gemstone. 

Herein, lies your opportunity. 

I ruined the ‘big reveal’ with the title of the article, so I won’t need a big run up to build anticipation. However, the specifics are interesting. So hang about… 

Spinels. An amazing stone. And, for several reasons, we feel it is massively undervalued as an engagement ring centre stone option. 

A worthy comparison to make is always;  ‘how does it compare to Sapphire’. Generally, this will be the litmus test. So let’s use this as our base.

This comparison is important in relation to how cost effective the spinel can be. This is our mission, to be able to help you realise your dream ring, within any limitation.

It’s why we focus on diamond ranges that are less recognised by industry standards that dictate higher value for certain diamonds - in which there is very little-to-no, visual reduction. A perfect example of this is the ‘warm white diamond’ ranges that we often use. These diamonds can be up to 60% less than white diamond ranges, and they occupy all the same intrinsic components as a white diamond, as well as having an individualistic flare to them - by nature of being unique. 

Shining a spotlight on spinel, is within the same vein. There is a disproportionate value-grab that provides a great opportunity for our customers. 

Now, let’s get into it.

BRILLIANCE & SPARKLE

Spinels exhibit an amazing capacity for brilliance, that is extremely comparable to sapphire and in many cases, can outperform in this value marker.

Let’s get ‘gemstone-nerdy’ for a second. 

Two aspects that are the main drivers for gemstone brilliance (sparkle), are refractive index and cut quality. 

Spinel has a refractive index of 1.712 to 1.762 - compared to Sapphire’s, 1.762 to 1.770. This should theoretically give sapphire a slight edge in terms of potential brilliance under identical conditions. However, there are a few nuances that can create a better perceived brilliance for spinel.

Cut Quality: The way a gemstone is cut plays a crucial role in its ability to exhibit brilliance. A well-cut spinel that maximizes light return can appear very brilliant, even if its refractive index is slightly lower than that of sapphire.

Colour and Transparency: The colour and transparency of a gemstone also significantly affect how brilliant it appears. Spinel often occurs in very transparent forms with vibrant colors, which can enhance its overall appearance of brilliance. Lighter or more transparent spinels can appear particularly brilliant because they allow more light to pass through and be reflected internally.

Lack of Inclusions: Spinel typically has fewer inclusions compared to certain sapphires, especially those treated to improve colour or clarity. Fewer inclusions mean less interruption in light transmission, which can make a spinel appear more brilliant.

Again, all of these characteristics would somewhat be irrelevant if it wasn’t for the advantage of price. 

Another very interesting angle is the comparison between hardness and toughness. This affects longevity and the gemstones ability to hold visual aesthetics. Whilst both properties relate to a gemstone's resistance to damage, they measure different types of resistance.

Hardness measures a material's resistance to being scratched or abraded. It's a critical factor in determining how well a gemstone can withstand surface wear from everyday contact with other materials. Essentially, referring to the surface-level effects. 

Toughness measures a material's resistance to breaking, chipping, or cracking when a force is applied. It's about the material's ability to absorb energy without fracturing. Here, we are looking more at the internal capacity.

These implications for your engagement ring are very notable. Let me explain…

The characteristic here that we need to reference, is called ‘cleavage’. 

Spinel has no cleavage, which means it doesn't have natural planes of weakness along which it can easily break or split - clearly a huge positive in the stones' toughness (as well as clarity/sparkle). 

Although sapphire sits at and a 9 on the Mohs scale (spinel an 8 Mohs) - which represents hardness, they will often have internal flaws that can make it vulnerable to chipping and cracking. 

The main consideration here is that the cost to repair a chipped or cracked gemstone, is far greater than surface level scratches and often means your stone can not be recut to fix it. 

So there is a very good argument to optimise for internal ‘hardness’ over toughness. Although the surface level hardness will protect your stone against short term scratching, there is a higher likelihood of damaging your stone internally, that could be beyond repair. 

As we make mention of in every article in which we reference opportunities in less-recognised stone options; we are not saying that sapphire is not an amazing option. It is a truly remarkable stone, with a vast range of colour hues, unique colour zoning and it is extremely durable. 

However, we are making a point of creating awareness around another gemstone option’ that is extremely cost efficient and holds characteristics that can be held up against some of the best coloured gemstones in the market. 

So, we implore you… Don’t ignore the amazing gemstone class; spinel. 

The colour ranges to look for; deep blues, purple-blue and greys. 

I wanted to start with the top-level technical gemstone rationale, however let me add on a little anecdotal story…

One thing that promoted this article was from an experience from of our very first customers, who opted for an amazing purple-grey spinel.

They brought their stone back in for a clean, two years after we first made the ring. The stone was absolutely immaculate. This is a function of both surface hardness and the flawless internal clarity that is specifically unique to spinel. I have seen many sapphires that have no been able to hold this degree of appearance after such time.

Enjoy.